The Bear season four review – finally becoming the show it was always destined to be

It’s outgrown the ‘Yes chef’ rages and screaming matches in the pantry and morphed into something more tender, beautiful – and endlessly moving. Let the happy tears flow

Recalibrate your palate: The Bear is not the show it used to be. The relentless drama you were stunned by in season two – when you finished an episode and said it was the best show you had ever seen, then played the next one and said it again – is not coming back.

Season four starts with Uncle Jimmy (Oliver Platt), the family friend who has invested in the fledgling Chicago eaterie The Bear, installing a countdown clock that says the business has 1,440 hours to save itself. But much of the new run isn’t even about the restaurant. The show is outgrowing its premise, leaving behind “yes, chef!”, lingering closeups of seared beef and screaming matches in the pantry in favour of a different intensity, one that draws even more deeply on the characters and how they fit together. Indulge it – and you will have to indulge it, in a few ways – and you will find this experience just as rich.